When I was a child, I was inspired by a photograph. You all have seen the one, a Grizzly bear in the midst of Alaska’s Brooks Falls, mouth open, with a salmon leaping right into it. There are many variations of that image, but even as an 8 year old, it was clear that this was definitely on the “Bucket List” (before I even knew what a Bucket List was!) I swore that someday, I would go to Alaska to go bearwatching during salmon season. So before I ever even owned a camera, I knew I had to witness this amazing phenomenon in person.
Researching the trip took quite a bit of effort. If you run an internet search for “Alaska bear photography,” a dozen or so companies pop up. I did not want to go with a big group that would dictate how long I could be out in the wilderness, and I did not want a large group that would scare away bears. It was also important to me to find a guide who was not only a bear expert, but an experienced photographer guide as well. When searching for a wildlife photography trip, read a lot, ask questions, and find the guide that suits your needs the best.
Sockeye Season
Fresh as it gets
Katmai National Park has the world’s highest concentration of brown bears (Also called Grizzly bears in North America), at an estimated number of over 2,000. The majority of bear viewers visit Brooks Falls, one of the only developed areas of the National Park, but few go beyond the viewing platforms there. Rangers at the park are very careful to prohibit feeding or human confrontations with the bears, and as a result these bears are uniquely indifferent to and unafraid of humans. This “perfect storm” of conditions allows photographers to get relatively close to the amazing animals.
Mother and Cub fishing
Mother and Cub
After much research, we were lucky enough to have veteran guide Phil Sanfilippo take us (3 people including the guide) out for our 6 day safari deep into the Katmai wilderness (3 plane flights, then a float plane, followed by a boat ride to camp). Never once did we have to use bear spray, deploy a flare, or shoot a firearm at a bear. They just kept fishing, eating, and doing their bear thing. There is inherent risk in being within close proximity of these large omnivores, but you can minimize those if you respect their space and take the proper precautions set forth by your guide.
At times, bears passed within 10 feet of us and none of us broke a sweat (OK, maybe a little!)… but we just kept on shooting! Despite my guide’s pre-trip advice, I rented a 500mm telephoto lens, but found it to be actually too much zoom (And too heavy for wading upriver for long periods). Most of the time the bears were so close, my 100-400mm lens was more than enough. As an added bonus – I wasn’t tripod-dependent with my 100-400mm lens (as I was with the 500mm) and was therefore more mobile (I like to sit, squat and do Kung Fu while I shoot) with the constantly moving bears. In addition, these bears perceived us as less threatening in a kneeling/squatting posture as opposed to standing, so flexibility and some leg endurance was truly an asset in getting the best images. This particular juvenile bear (below) sneaked up behind us while we were photographing another bear, and was less than 10 feet away when it decided to dry off with a mighty shake.
Subadult bear drying off
A few things I learned on this trip:
- Find a bear guide who treats the animals ethically and does not pressure them or chase them. Relaxed, natural animals will show in your images and stick around longer for you to get your shot! When you spend a long time with these animals, you learn that each bear has its own distinct personality.
- Make sure you have a good pair of waders or a guide who can provide them. At times you will find yourself shooting in waist-deep water, and these were some of our best shots!
- Along the same lines, you must have a good drybag for your equipment. Rain comes and goes in the Katmai, and you could be a 2 hour hike and boat ride away from camp.
- Be prepared to wait, get wet, cold, and dirty, and wait. and wait some more. It is not a zoo, so bears come and go as they please.
- Keep your spare batteries warm so they don’t drain as quickly. I kept mine in my fleece pocket close to my body.
- Bring lots of memory cards and your hardiest backup storage device. Each evening was spent downloading and backing up images. Power was via generator at camp (only accessible for a few hours each evening).
- Mosquito repellent. I cannot stress this enough, there are all sorts of biting flies, gnats, and the like (See above picture for example!). We learned to welcome rain because it meant a respite from the insects.
- What the images don’t show you: The smell of dead and decaying fish, kneeling in bear excrement, the 5 layers of clothing I’m wearing, and the ear-to-ear grin on my face.
Surveying the carnage
- Brooks Falls can be very crowded during salmon season (July-Aug). They limit the number of photographers on the platform and the amount of time you can spend there. We avoided this location altogether, so I cannot comment on that experience. If you have shot there, I’d love to hear about your experience and see your images!
- Bears change; after coming out of hibernation, their coats are more scraggly and they are thinner. Towards the end of the season (when we went), there are fewer fish, but the bears have filled out and their coats have thickened in anticipation of the winter. The salmon runs are unpredictable but follow a general pattern from year to year. Contact your guide for advice.
Most importantly, this trip made me regress into that wide-eyed 8 year old kid again. There were lots of “wows!”, “Did you see that?”, and “That’s awesome!” intermingled with the sounds of our shutters going as fast as they could. I found the fountain of youth, if only for a week, by living out this childhood fantasy. Simply reliving that childhood glee made everything worth it. There is no better source of inspiration than a dream come true.
Jumping for fish
If you are looking more Alaskan inspiration or ideas, I recommend Wild Things Photography which showcases some of the amazing work of Alaskan photographer John Hyde. Alaska is filled with areas of pristine wilderness, breathtaking landscapes, and awe-inspiring wildlife.
Has an image ever made you dream of travel and exploration? Stop making excuses and go. And bring something back to inspire the rest of us to go too. Happy travels!